Wax Bloom

Fleshy Colors

Beige

Keeps flesh tones nice and warm. I find that skin can get cold and dead looking if a layer of this is never applied.

Light Flesh*

A little bit cooler than Beige, acts as a nice medium between Light Peach and Peach.

Medium Flesh*

Similar in strength to peach, but warmer.

Dark Flesh*

A bit lighter than nectar, and not quite as orangey as Peach.

Pink Madder Lake*

A crisp, bright pink. Works well for the pinkish parts of eyelids and blushed cheeks.

Nectar

A very dark reddish pink, great for mottled or older skin, or somewhat darker shadows.

Light Peach

A highlight color, also used to warm up white highlights.

Peach

Mid-tone color, nice for upper eyelids and the shadows under the nose.

Rosy Beige

A purplish beige, good for shadows and eyelids.

Blush

A darker, warmer pink than Pink Madder Lake.

Pale Vermillion

Lips and cheeks.

Biege Sienna

Purplish, good lead color for shadows.

Yellows & Oranges

Cream

A very light yellow. Great for warm highlights.

Sand

Several shades lighter than Ochre, its great at bridging gaps between shadows and warming things up.

Orange

I use this to keep shadows warm.

Yellowed Orange

Another shadow warmer upper when I dont want them quite so dark as orange would make it.

Ochre

A very dark, brownish yellow. Use this around older eyes and when falling into shadow.

Gold Ochre*

Darker than Ochre, used in the same way.

Browns

Indian Red*

A very warm, rich brown leaning towards red. Mid-range shadows.

Burnt Ochre

Lightest brown in the line up. Creases, wrinkles, higher ranged mid-tones.

Terra Cotta

Similar to Indian Red, but not as red. First pass shadows.

Dark Umber

Very dark brown. Dark shadows, nostrils, etc.

Pompejan Red*

Warm reddish brown, redder than Terra Cotta but not as red as Indian Red.

Van Dyke Brown*

A cool, medium brown. Used mostly to imply whiskery skin.

Sepia

Darker than Van Dyke Brown and slightly warmer.

Sienna Brown

The middle brown. Used to merge dark shadows to fleshier tones

Dark Sepia*

A very dark brown, much warmer than Dark Umber. Used when warmer shadows are needed.

Sandbar Brown

Used in conjunction with Van Dyke Brown

Purples & Reds

Grayed Lavender

Very light purple. Nice for thin skin shadows.

Parma Violet

Dark purple. Cooler shadows

Lilac

Mid range purple, used with Grayed Lavender

Purple*

Very dark, warm purple. Dark shadows

Crimson Lake

Powerful red for dark, warm shadows.

Scarlet Lake

Bright, strong red. Used delicately to darken shadows

Blues & Greens

Sky Blue Light

Bright, almost white blue. Direct light highlights.

Copenhagen Blue

Strong, very blue. Used with Dark Umber for very dark shadows.

Blue Slate

Mid range blue, great for shadows and light reflections.

Indigo Blue

Very, very dark blue. Use this with a very dark brown instead of black.

Dark Green

Very dark green (surprise!) – used with Crimson Lake for rich, warm shadows.

Gray Green*

Lighter green, neutral shadows.

Night Green*

Very VERY dark green. Always layered on other darks to make them even darker.

Neutrals

White (Caran d’Ache)

Bright, thick white. I use this to blend and roll over other colors. This one goes OVER colors.

White*

Warm white, used as a means to lighten the support before colors like Light Peach go over it. This one goes UNDER colors.

Cool Gray 10%

Almost, but not quite white. Used when its a bright highlight, but not that bright.